Giant Zucchini: it can be delicious, really

Now is the time of giant zucchini, those monsters gushing with liquid, their skins woody and tough. These sun-soaked squash are still good for eating. In fact, the overgrown ones are my favorites for a late summer comfort food.

The dish can be a side dish or a meal all its own. Mix with cooked rice for mock-risotto or serve over pasta as an alternative to alfredo sauce. Whatever you do, serve it in a bowl, because while it tastes heavenly, its looks are, well... cooked down zucchini in cream. 

It's easy, uses inexpensive ingredients, and cooks up in 45 minutes with minimal attention. All you need are:

• A saucepan with a lid
• zucchini, enough to fill the saucepan when cut up (1 or 2 squash/1 to 2 pounds)
• oil or butter
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice (optional)
• sour cream and/or plain yogurt, 1 Cup per pound of zucchini
• parmesan cheese, grated, shredded, or shaved (best with hard cheeses)
• black pepper
• salt
• breadcrumbs (optional)

Step 1. Slice the zucchini into large chunks, an inch & a half long, then cut again to make half-circles.

2. Add 1 TBL of butter or oil to the bottom of the saucepan. Add the cut up zucchini. Add the lemon juice. If not using lemon juice, add a splash of water, just a teaspoon the start the steam. Put the lid on the saucepan and place over medium heat.

3. When you hear the contents start to sizzle and steam, turn the heat down to low. Set a timer for 15 minutes.

This is important: don't lift the lid for the next 15 minutes! You are creating a steam to start the cooking. Letting them steam means that you can use just a little butter or oil, you don't have to stir, and the squash will juice out properly instead of burning. Instead of opening and stirring, hold the lid down on the saucepan and give the whole thing a shake a couple of times. That will be enough to keep them from sticking.

4. After 15 minutes, you can lift the lid and stir the zucchini around. It will still be firm at this point. Cover again and allow it to continue cooking on low for 20 - 25 minutes more. If you cook it longer, it will be suitable as a sauce, but it won't have any body to stand alone.

5. Check your zucchini for tenderness. Like it? Great! You can take the saucepan off the heat.

6. Spoon some of the hot zucchini broth into a bowl. Now add your sour cream, yogurt, or mix of the two and the hot liquid. This will prevent curdling as you add the cream mixture into the zucchini. 

7. Add pepper and cheese. Taste. Add salt as needed.

• If the result is too runny for your tastes, add breadcrumbs, return to the heat, and allow it to simmer for up to five minutes. Do not try to make it thicken by longer simmering. The zucchini will cook down to oblivion and you'll have a weird soup. 

• Alternately, you can move the zucchini and sauce into an oven safe dish, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and more cheese, and toast the top.